Melukote / Melkote - Sri Cheluvaraya Swamy Temple

Melukote or Melkote is a small town in Mandya district, around 120km from Bangalore. 

A a historic town, is located at a distance of 50 km from Mysore. Melkote is situated in Pandavapura Taluk of Mandya,  Melkote is one of the holy places of Karnataka. It is built on rocky hills known as Yadavagiri or Yadugiri overlooking the Kaveri valley. Melkote is also referred as Thirunarayanapuram.

Melkote is a popular center of pilgrimage center and has two different temples. The main temple is a square building of large size but very plain is dedicated to Lord Cheluva Narayana Swamy or Tirunarayana.



The utsav murthy (metallic procession idol) representing the deity is referred as Cheluvapille Raya whose original name appears to have been Ramapriya.



It is believed that the utsav murthy was worshipped by Lord Rama and his son Kusha; hence the name Ramapriya.

Vairamudi Utsav or Vairamudi festival

This temple of Melkote is popular for its Vairamudi Utsav, which is held in the month of March/April, the procession idol of Cheluvaraya Narayana Swamy is decorated with a diamond crown and taken out in procession. The Vairamudi utsav, which is the chief annual celebration, is witnessed by more than 4 lakh people.

It is believed that the diamond crown is not to be viewed at when it is not worn by the utsav murthy (procession idol); hence every year, on the occasion, the officiating priest takes out the crown from its chest with his eyes blindfolded and then places it on the head of the idol of Sri Cheluvaraya Narayana Swamy.
 

The weekend trip to Melukote was an eventful one.

Yoganarasimha temple, as seen from the town

On the streets of Melukote..

Melukote or Melkote is generally done as a day-trip from Bangalore. But we were keen to be there at the time of sunrise, so decided to make it a two day trip. There aren’t any places to stay in Melukote, but we managed to sneak into the house of a kind lady who not only gave us place to stay but also ensured that we were fed to brim!

Melukote town and the Kalyani, as seen from the top of the hill

Melukote is a temple town, standing immune to the stride of time. There are a couple of temples, a few Kalyanis and mantapas that make the town. And most of the residents seem to be priests. Houses have an old-time look and nothing in town is flashy or modern. And unlike most religious places, it is not garish but quiet, pleasant and easygoing. People are friendly and hospitable.

The Kalyani

We made our way further towards Yoganarasimha temple on the top of a hill – the major landmark in Melukote. 

The way up to the top is through steps that can tire the aged, but is actually a short climb. There are a few trees on the hill,which are planted!” On the otherwise barren hill, someone had thoughtfully planted leafy trees along the path to give shade to the people visiting the temple. Bless them!

The steps leading to Yoganaraimha Swamy temple

I took a detour just before the temple and found the path opening up to the vistas of the plains below, revealing the vast planes, fields and villages at a distance. It was an overcast evening with plenty of shade from the clouds and pleasant breeze on the hilltop, which invited us to spend another hour there.

When we eventually reached the temple to finish our long journey, I was pleasantly surprised by the temple’s design. It did not have the typical dark sanctum and priests performing rituals on the other side of a fenced arena, but instead an open and informal interior where anyone could freely walk around. It was a pleasure to be inside, and to go up on the top of temple to savor the 360-degree views of the surroundings. We stayed there till sun down.

The temple Gopura at Sunset

At the top of the temple..

The idea of spending two days in Melukote was to be there to relish the early morning hours. But things did not work out as we planned. Next morning, we woke up only after 8, and seeing that the sun was already high, took our time and came out only after 9. It has been such a disappointment missing the morning, two-three weeks since the trip we are still it blaming each other for it!

We walked to Sankrit research institute which was closed being a Sunday, and then to Raya Gopura and Akka Thangi Kola. Raya Gopura is another landmark which has served as a location for many movies. The watchman at the Gopura said there was a movie crew previous evening too. Akka Thangi Kola are a pair of kalyanis next to each other.

Thangi Kola

Description of Melukote is never complete without a mention of Puliogre, the favourite dish of the town. Go to any place, and be assured that you will be offered Puliogre. It is indeed delicious, but at the end of two days, we had an overdose of it. All meals that we had in Melukote included Puliogre in the menu, and sometimes it was a Puliogre-only meal! Sakkare Pongal is another dish the the town takes pride about.

There is no accommodation available in Melukote. There are a few eateries that serve clean and healthy food, but don’t expect much.

Cheluvanarayanaswamy temple in the town is another well known place. Landmarks in the town are the Kalyani below Yoganarasimha temple, Raya Gopura, Akka Thangi Kola and the Sanskrit research institute. Tondlur kere is a huge lake 15km from Melukote is worth a visit.